Haji’r Tehari

Haji’r Tehari is an integral part of Dhaka’s food scene. And for me, it is most definitely one of the highlights when I visit Old Dhaka.

What makes tehari different than biryani is the use of smaller peices of meat weather it be beef or goat meat. The use of mustard oil instead of ghee most definitely makes it have a lighter feel to it overall. The acid from the lime compliments the mustard perfectly. And of course you can’t forget the aroma of the bird’s eye chillies.

It’s very important to note that the use of a large dutch oven is very crucial for the success of this particular recipe.

Usually, the lid of the pot is sealed using a dough seal — but by using a dutch oven (because it has a thick bottom and heavy lid) we are able to avoid the dough seal and get the same result.

Ingredients

For the mutton:

• 3 lb bone-in mutton, small pieces
• 1 teaspoon nutmeg, ground
• 1/2 teaspoon mace, ground
• 1/2 teaspoon white pepper
• 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
• 1/4 teaspoon clove, ground
• 1 teaspoon cumin, toasted and ground
• 1/2 teaspoon green cardamom, ground
• 1 whole black cardamom
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 tablespoon garlic paste
• 1 teaspoon ginger paste
• 1 yellow onion, sliced
• 1/2 cup mustard oil
• 4 to 5 green/red bird’s eye chillies

For the rice:

• 3 cups small grain rice, kalijeera or chinirgura
• 1 and 1/2 teaspoon ginger paste
• 1 and 1/2 teaspoon garlic paste
• 1/3 cup mustard oil
• 6 to 7 green/red bird’s eye chillies
• 4 to 5 key limes, about 2 tablespoons of key lime juice

Directions

1. In a dutch oven start with the mustard oil, once heated up add sliced onions, ginger and garlic paste and cook for 1 to 2 minutes.
2. Add in bay leaves and black cardamom and toast it for a minute before adding in and cooking all the ground spices, whole bird’s eye chillies and two big pinches of salt.
3. Once the spices are cooked out add in the mutton and make sure to cover all the pieces with the spices — cover the pot and cook the meat for 5 minutes on low to medium heat the salt should draw out some water from the meat and prevent it from burning or catching on the bottom of the pot.
4. After 5 minutes add in about 1/2 to 1 cup of water (depending on how much water pooled from the meat) cover and cook for an hour on medium heat. Make sure to check on the meat at 15 or 20-minute intervals.
5. Once the meat has cooked for an hour turn down the heat to low and cook for another 1 to 2 hours or until the meat is tender. (Or if you are like me and want to do other things around the house put the oven at 200° and chuck it in there for an hour or two.)
6. When you’ve determined that the meat is tender enough, make sure the base sauce that’s formed around the mutton has completely evaporated leaving only the fat that has been rendered out. (Put the dutch oven on the stove and turn it on high if needed to evaporate the excess liquid.)
7. Once you only see the rendered fat and spices on the bottom of the pot — with a slotted spoon remove the meat (and set it aside) leaving the rendered fat and spices in the pot.
8. Do not clean the pot as you will be making the rice in the same pot using the rendered fat and spices.
9. In a rice washer or bowl wash your rice at least three times while rubbing the rice between your fingers to release the starch and impurities. The water should run significantly less cloudy than when you started.
10. Once you’ve drained the rice — add the mustard oil the rendered fat and spices and heat it up and add the rice, bird’s eye chillies, garlic and ginger paste and fry the rice. (This step is very important in order to get fluffy rice.)
11. When the rice sticks slightly on the bottom add 6 cups of water to the rice and cover and cook on medium for 20 minutes.
12. After 20 minutes check if the rice is cooked fully and layer the meat in and gently toss the rice and meat together with the 2 tablespoons of key lime juice. Cover it back and let it sit for another 15 to 20 minutes.
13. It’s important to let it sit and steam the rice and meat to the flavours all meld. (This step is called “doom/dam/dhum.”)
14. If you choose to make it a few hours ahead before eating — just chuck it in the oven at the lowest heat setting to keep it warm.
15. Serve with cucumber slices and lime wedges.